Umbrian Overview with Sandro Camille of AIS

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3 APRIL, SUNDAY (morning)

At hotel: Tasting of the region’s best wines, organised by AIS (Italian Association of Sommeliers), President Sandro Camille

UMBRIA: SOME FACTS …

  1. Etruscan heritage. Vines were actually trees that were not connected to other plants. Monks played an important role in preserving vine growing.
  2. Grew grapes for church – lots of monasteries in Umbria. Monks came from all over the world and brought their grape varieties with them.
  3. In late 1800s  phylloxera - so 1960s new plantings.
  4. 8456 square kilometres
  5. 75% is hillsides
  6. The 29 % mountain areas
  7. A mild and dry climate
  8. Entire region faces south
  9. Summers are hot
  10. So large difference in temperature between day and night and between the seasons
  11. 12,189 hectares of vineyards
  12. Soil: argille, calcari, marne grigie, tufo, volcanic
  13. Whites : 43%  red 57%
  14. Production 2009 : 945,000 hl
  15. Used to be majority of whites – now the opposite.
  16. Orvieto still dominated by whites
  17. Umbria produces 2% of Italy’s wine
  18. GRAPES:  Trebbiano tuscano, Sangiovese, Grechetto, Merlot, Sagrantino, Cab sauv, Malvasie, Chardonnay, Verdello, Pinot Grigio, Ciliegioao, Montepulicano,
  19. Gamay del Trasimeno, Pinot Nero, Canaiolo Nero, Cabernet franc, Barbera ..
  20. Alirir: Trebbiano spoletto, Sauvignon blanc, Manzoni blanc, Alcatrico Dolcetto, Riesling italico, Colorino, Cesanese
  21. Grechetto is THE most typical grape of the region
  22. And Sagrantino and Sangiovese
  23. 2 DOCG and 11 DOC
  24. Other DOCs being created as we speak
  25. 36 months from barrel to bottle
  26. 5 year refinement process plus the 36 months
  27. Riserva only come from a very small hillside vineyard

TASTING

CONTE DELLA VIPERA IGT 2007

Chardonnay/Sauvignon blanc.  He won’t tell us which percentages! He says that whites here are not very acidic. A warm region and getting warmer – yes, climate change is a factor. Finally he said it. Nez: floral, white flowers, elegant, fresh. Palate is acidic, and structured and not bad.

PALAZONE CAMPO GUARDIANO 2008 Orvieto Classico Superior

Greccheto, Trebbianno and Lupiego. Very little nose – palate bitter, lack of acidity …but finish is surprisingly persistent.

CORNIOLO Colli del Trasimeno Rooso Riserva 2007

Liked this one. Fresh, lively, elegant nose jammy and fruity. Ok, my favourite.

L’ARRINGATORE 2006 Goretti

Sangiovese 60%, merlot 30%, Cilliegiolo 10% 14%

Was a bit weird on the nose – salty, and huge tannins – undrinkable. So, went back to the nose later, and found it oaky and - still horrible on the mouth and finish.

CHIUSA DI PANNONE  Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG 2004 chez Antonelli

Very nice. Nose perfumed, mouth elegant and fresh but then the alcohol and tannins take over… a 2004, way too young. Very green tannins and bitterness on the fnish.  Went back to it a second time and it was better. Still clumsy and urgh at the end. Boring and hot.   Everyone else loved this wine.

RUBINO della PALAZZOLA2005  IGT

Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Why try to do a Bordeaux blend in Umbria? Boring, unbalanced, malfait.  Horse nose, ok mouth, and then no finish:  hot dry and amer.  Went back to it and think now it is even worse!

RUBESCO Vigna Monticchio 2005, Lungarotti

Sangiovese and Caniaolo. Best nose. Elegant and fresh. Mouth also fresh. Too much alcohol on the finish: fruit and boy evaporates.

(Most of these wines are being sold at retail between 15-20 euros!)