Chablis as it ought to be, and Rivetti's La Spinetta

The DOMAINE OUDIN’S 2010 Chablis Les Serres is a joy. It is Chablis as it ought to be: crisp, mineral, subtly perfumed and refreshingly personable. It is NOT, a blousy, insipid, over-oaked New World wanna-be.

Domaine Oudin, Chablis

Nathalie Oudin is a master of elegance and balance. It helps that, thanks to her parents, she possesses first-class raw materials. Their 8 hectares of vines are in clay and limestone soils and situated on the south and south-west facing hilltops surrounding the village of Chichée. Les Serres is issued from vines between 30-70 years of age from 1ier cru parcels (with a bit from the Grand Cru parcels of Vaucousins and Vaugiraut). They do everything right here: from hand-harvesting, gentle pressing, the use of only natural/indigenous yeasts (as opposed to selected yeasts), and temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks with a minimal addition of sulphites.

The pedigree is evident right from the start, with a stony, mineral nose followed by a crisp, lively and decidedly feminine palate with restrained citrus notes. It is tightly structured without being austere. It is elegant and focused.

This wine was perfection when paired with a divine truffle risotto at Raymond Blanc’s Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons.

 

Do you love Barolo and cannot afford its price tag? Then try Nebbiolo from its satellite appellations such as Langhe. The talented Rivetti family has a range of Nebbiolos from their vast vineyards and the other night we enjoyed Giorgio’s 2007 La Spinette from Langhe DOC. It is issued from much younger vines (5-7 years), but it is treated to the same care and attention as its older brothers and allows you to enjoy its evident potential. The elegance and race was there, as were the dried roses, the minerality and the intoxicatingly dark, sulky red fruit. This one already knows how to flirt!

GIORGIO RIVETTI

Le Manoir keeps its cellars at 14-15˚ C, and as I like my Nebbiolo, especially a young one like this, at no more than 16-17˚ C, it was served perfectly, as it gains a degree or two when poured. It was perfect with our Aberdeen Angus and Grouse …

LJ Johnson-Bell