La Chablisienne, Tirel-Guerin in St Malo
/As I am researching my new book on Climate Change and Wine, I find myself drawn to my old tasting notes from when I fell under the spell of the voluptuous seductiveness, the savoury textures and the animal perfumes of the Burgundies of the ’80 and ‘90s. I cannot help but compare the alcohol levels and trace my notes throughout the decades.
La Chablisienne Lunch at Tirel-Guerin in St Malo
21 February 1994
1991 La Chablisienne, Vieilles Vignes
Served with an oyster broth which gave it a slight metallic after-taste. But its attack was fruity and focused. Palate round and balanced. Really nice.
The wines below were served with Coquilles Saint-Jacques des Cotes d’Armor aux Senteurs Perigourdines (avec truffles et foie gras dans une brique – I still dream of this dish.) :
1989 Premier Cru « Beauroy »
Mediocre …metalic, lacking body.
1990 Premier Cru « Cote de Lechet »
A joy. Luscious and complex and full of personality. Very well-made.
1990 Premier Cru « Fourchaume »
Served too chilled and the robe was a milky cloudy white. It settled and cleared, revealing a luxuriously rich and appealing wine. Fourchaume is my favourite vineyard in Chablis, and this one does not disappoint.
The wines below were served with a Pintadeau Fermier Poêle au Shiitake :
1990 Premier Cru « Bougros »
Excellent…a white birch tree after a spring raisntorm. Musk. Ondulating and voluptuous.
1990 Premier cru « Blanchot »
A very upfront nose – so much so that there is little to follow on the palate. Slightly metallic and acidic.
1989 Premier Cru « Château Grenouille »
Again, served too chilled and with a cloudy robe, but cleared to a fruity delight. Notes of oranges.
1984 Premier Cru « Les Preuses »
Delicious. Best of the day. Served with fromage du Darley en salade aux sésames dorés.
Crémant de Bourgogne served with chocolate mi-amer Valrhona.