Alto Adige: Who needs France?

 Crisp, personal, solid Pinot Blancs… Chardonnays with the muscle and salty earthiness of a top Meursault… aromatic Gewürztraminers that toy between the sharp and the sensual… and Sauvignons that are explosively fruity and complex …  You would forgive me for thinking that I was in France. But no, I am in Alto Adige.  And there is another surprise to come: the Pinot Neros (Pinot Noir). They are divine, and devoid of that medicinal, metallic retro-olfactive with which so many basic red Burgundies can be marked.  These are fresh, elegant, and ooze a velvety smoothness of plums and warm earth.

Alto Adige, or Südtirol, is one of Italy’s smallest regions (only providing .7% of Italy’s total production) and can boast the fact that 98% of its wines are of the DOC quality category. There is archaeological evidence of viticulture here that pre-dates the Romans and today there are 12,500 acres of vineyards. Almost 75% of these are owned by cooperatives, in which, typically, each of the hundreds of members might cultivate a plot of less than 2.5 acres. Cooperatives often have a negative connotation in the wine world, but not here. Here, the concept works as it is meant to and produces high quality, terroir-driven wines.

Nestled in the slopes of the snow-covered Southern Alps, Alto Adige has been home to the noble Bordeaux and Burgundy grapes for over a hundred years. The diverse soils and altitudes welcomed them a place alongside their already established Sylvaner, Müller-Thurgau, Veltliner, Riesling and their famously gorgeous native red grape, Lagrein. Protected by the Dolomites, the vineyards’ altitudes range from 750 – 3250 ft above sea level and the rich soils are a geographical rainbow of dolomitic rock, fluvial deposits, porphyry, moraine debris, volcanic deposits and slate-primitive rock.

Couple this unique climate and exposition with the quality wine-making techniques these producers embrace, and we are presented with consistent and powerfully elegant, grown-up wines that rival the French greats at half the price. And as Burgundy is being hit by hotter growing seasons and we are seeing more and more boiled Pinot (heat erases any varietal cahracter and terroir influence), the cool, refreshing Alpine climate produces a more expressive Pinot Noir.  I, for one, shall be stocking my cellars with some Pinot Nero. Unlike Burgundy, where quality can be a bit hit-and-miss for even the “experts” and quality seems to only be assured by paying exorbitant prices, the Pinot Nero seems to have found the opportunity to express the best facets of  its unique and elegant personality, here in the Alto Adige.  As one of the charming producers quipped to me as I swooned over his Sauvignon: “Who needs France?”

Some favourites:

1. Pinot Bianco 2009, Cantina Andriano

From Astrum Wine Cellars, www.astrumwinecellars.com

Cantino Andriano was founded in 1893 and is the oldest wine producing cooperative in the region. Situated in one of the cooler areas of Alto Adige, yet protected to the West by Mount Gantkofel, they produce elegant, well-built wines made for cellaring. The Pinot Bianco is unoaked, with an approachable, fruity nose. The mouth is well-balanced with solid extracts and a fresh and lively acidity, leading to a persistent and elegant finish. Beautifully made.

2. Terlano Sauvignon Quartz 2008, Cantina Terlano

From Astrum (see above)

Cantina Terlano has been producing wines since 1893 and their wines owe their distinction to the high mineral content of the soils: the vineyards lie on a red porphyry base of volcanic rock with large mineral crystal deposits. This Sauvignon is true to its name (quartz!). It has a steely, mineral freshness carrying a lush, fleshy body of apricots. It is not a ubiquitous caricature of the sauvignon grape: there is no fake vegetal edge or superficial herbiness to it, screaming, “I am Sauvignon” as do some of the New World models. There is just straightforward, solid fruit and structure: Sauvignon as it is meant to be. Their Lagrein Riserva Porphyr 2007 is also unmissable.

3. Gewürtztraminer 2009, Erste + Neue

From New Generation Wines Ltd., www.newgenerationwines.comA long-running cooperative with a tradition of single-vineyard expertise, this Gewürztraminer is an elegant and original expression of this grape: a good balance between crisp minerality and unctuous floral and spicy elegance. It has all of the hallmarks of the traditional Alsatian version of the grape, yet at the same time imparts another dimension to the model – a distinctly Alto Adige-dimension – quite cheeky and personable.

4. Pinot Nero Mezzan 2008, Erste + Neue

From New Generation Wines Ltd (as above)

The Pinot Noir from this cooperative was a real find. It is approachable without being sweet or boring: there is definite power and structure here, but very fluidly and elegantly expressed. A violet nose takes you into velvety textured body and a good finish. The tannins are well integrated and the overall effect is that one is drinking a very expensive red Burgundy – a Volnay …

5. Pinot Nero Barthenau Vigna S. Urbano 2007, Tenuta J. Hofstätter

From FortyFive 10°

masi@fortyfive10.eu

 This family-owned estate was founded in 1907. The family is quick to point out that the nearest town is Bolzano, which lies on the same line of latitude as Mâcon in Burgundy and that they have made Pinot Nero their specialty. They have two Pinot Neros, their Pinot Nero Meczan, whose 2009 was round, peppery and powerful, and the Barthenau, which was simply stunning. The nose was so perfumed and yet the mouth was restrained, direct, fresh and tightly made… saving itself for the even better times to come… to cellar.

 

6. Pinot Nero Ludwig 2007, Elena Walch from Bancroft Wine Ltd., www.bancroftwines.com

 Elena Walch, an ex-architect, married into a prominent wine-producing family in Tramin/Termeno and turned to wine-making in 1985. Her wines have earned several of the coveted Three Glassses awards from the Gambero Rosso. Her Pinot Nero Ludwig is gorgeously well-made.  Aged for 14 months in half new oak and half old oak, its power is discreetly brought to the surface by subtle tannins and lively acidity. Perfumed, complex, elegant, it is drinkable now, but worth cellaring.

7. Pinot Nero Precios 2007, Josef Niedermayr Estate

From Passione Vino, www.passionevino.co.uk

 Stunning. It opens with an earthy mineral-ness evoking the vineyard’s chalky soils. The nose is intense with dark berries, spice and violets. The body is textured and complex and the finish is fresh and long. Everything is here, from start to finish. This is a cooperative situated near Girlan, which is has been a family business since 1852: they manage their own vineyards as well as monitor and work with other winegrowers.

LJ Johnson-Bell

Gusbourne Estate, Kent

The Gusbourne Estate was first mentioned in 1410, when John de Gosborne’s will was filed. Today, Andrew Weeber, a retired South African oral surgeon, now living in Geneva and Kent, is the proud owner. His Vineyard Manager is Jon Pollard, who studied oenology at Plumpton College. This is a very new estate. In fact, the word “new” applies to everything within our sight as well as the philosophy behind the wines. Mr. Weeber is 100% modern and has every winery, macinery gadget that you can buy, and like a boy with his new toys, he proudly displays them. They started the plantings in 2001 and their wines were launched in 2010, to much acclaim. For the moment, the wines are being elaborated at Ridgeview, as there is as yet, no winery. But I saw the plans for the upcoming winery and visitors’ centre, and we are in for a treat.

Because of all of this “newness” and the fact that the wine is made elsewhere (albeit, placed in the vey able hands of Ridgeview!), I was not expecting very much, but these wines were a fabulous surprise and I very much look forward to visiting Gusbourne again to better stock my cellar. Mr. Weeber is a highly entertaining, ambitious and passionate man and his drive is clearly expressed in all that he does. The wines are well-made and mirror his multi-faceted and explosive personality.

Gusbourne makes 3 sparkling wines only, using the Champagne grapes, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier: the Brut Reserve, the Blanc de Blanc and the Sparkling Rose. The estate is sited on the low, south-facing slopes of the escarpment at Appledore.

2007 Blancs de Blanc

Nose is clean, acidic and fresh. Body is lively yet corpulent – good finish, very nice.

I kept going back to this one – my favourite. It just really opened up and revealed a yeasty toastiness – very refined, flavourful and well-balanced.

Sparkling Rose

Ok – nose is good, notes of spice and summer berries. Palate is well-structured with good acidity. Finish a bit short.

2007 Brut Reserve

A fabulously grown-up nose of summer blossoms and fruit stone-pits…leading to a firm but fleshy and fruity body and a clean, persistent finish. Lovely.

2010 Pinot Noir

This is not an available wine, but as I am on the hunt for still Pinot Noir, he showed us one he has made. I am so glad that he did. The nose is lovely. Not at all a typical Pinot Noir, but it is really interesting - has a peppery finish.

Gusbourne Estate
Appledore
Kent, TN26 2BE
England

+44 12 33 758 666

For general enquiries:

www.gusbourne.com  

Hush Heath, Kent

HUSH HEATH ...

If you are ever in doubt as to why Kent is called “The Garden of England”, visit Hush Heath. We were transported into one of those picture-perfect images on a biscuit tin. Our magical tour was led by the winemakers Owen Elias and Victoria Ash, Rupert Taylor, the Sales Manager, as well as the owner, Richard Balfour-Lynn.

The estate is absolutely stunning: apple tree orchards, manicured Italian gardens, vineyards, oast houses … all wrapped up in a violently lush landscape of wisteria and roses. Balfour-Lynn is clear that his sole objective is to produce an English Pink Sparkling Wine to rival the finest Champagne, and this he does. It is a small and private production: No winery visits, no gift shops or tea rooms: just his wine … Balfour.

He rightly repeats the fact that Kent is a fruit-growing region, and adds that the New World cannot make sparkling wines properly: it is too hot. Whereas, our climate provides the crucial acidity. But, he feels that Champagne has done a lot to tarnish their image and wishes to distinguish the English sparkling wines: our acidity is different to that of France’s. His award-winning sparkling wine is thus a non-malolactic wine, left sur lies for 18 months and it is all about the acidity. His wines are young and fresh as he combines the best of the Old World with the New. He revels in the climatic diversity served up by Mother Nature, as he wishes to avoid homogenous, “reliable” wines.

 

2010 Nannette’s Chardonnay
I know that he said that he only does the Balfour, and when I visited, this was the case. He allowed us to taste this Chardonnay, which at the time was not commercialised, as he wishes to keep production restrained. But I have seen that it is now available to buy on the web-site, so you must do so.

The wine has a lovely nose. You can smell the extracts: unfiltered, rustic, meaty extracts that give this wine a complex structure yet at the same time, a refined expression. Chardonnay, so often bastardised around the globe, takes on an elegantly individual hue, here, in this garden of Kent.

2010 Balfour Brut Rosé

75% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay. Lovely nose, perfumes of rosemary and spices, leading to a fruity, rose petal palate with firm, persistent mousse and a clean, acidic and fresh finish. Delicious.

Richard Balfour-Lynn

Hush Heath

Five Oak Lane

Junction of Snoad Lane

Marden, Kent

TN12 0HX

Tel: 01622 832 794

winery@hushheath.com

Chapel Down, Kent

Chapel Down holds the place as the “darling” of English wine, and deservedly so.  It is still the largest producer of English wines, sourcing their grapes from their own vineyards both on and off-site from around the Southeast of England and East Anglia. They may be big, with even bigger plans, but the mindset of the Australian winemaker, Andrew Parley, is about making wines the traditional way (hand-harvesting, indigenous yeasts, low alcohol) – and finding an “English” style in an Old World context. There is a fantastic wine shop and bistro where you can taste their wines with the local produce they also sell. They are doing everything right. They use the white grapes Bacchus, Chardonnay, Huxelrebe, Schönburger, Reichensteiner, Seigerrebe and Pinot Blanc and the red Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier.

Andrew says that he is not seeing a huge difference in “terroir” yet, and that frankly, he is more worried about exposition: catching the sun and avoiding the elements. They have a problem with getting their desired yields (as does the rest of England) and sometime struggle to get 1 ton an acre. This is fascinating. When I was in Italy for the last harvests, yields were down there, too, but for the opposite reason: it was too hot. In Emilia-Romagna, Abruzzo, Le Marche … they were all losing 20-30% of the grape yield. Here, they struggle to get them to mature. He adds that eventually, we’ll have an oversupply in the UK. 2010 was already a huge year and most wineries are lagging in production capacity – that will change as they catch up. Contract processing is slowing and more and more people are setting up shop and making their own wines. This is great news. 

Notes on the TANK SAMPLES:

1) the sparkling base wine:

60% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir and 10% Pinot Meunier

This base wine is from 5 different parcels, varying from clay and chalk from Essex. It has gone through malolactic fermentation. The pH is about 3, and the alcohol will be about 11+. He aims for 12.5˚, not more. He does not need to chaptalise. He can get a phenolic maturation at 11˚. Sugars went up this year because the berries were so small. Fungal diseases can be a problem, but this year has been great.

2) 2011 Chardonnay

Unoaked style from chalky parcels. Underwent a full malolactic. It is unchaptalised, and will still be at 13˚. No new oak – that would kill it, he said. He mixed clones, mixed parcels from different soils, chalk and clay. He is really experimenting - wants Chablis

2010 will need chaptalising. This is really nice.  Fresh and clean with a good finish. I don’t know if it is important to “copy” the Chablis model, but he seems to have captured the acidity and steeliness of it without forgetting the expression of the English fruit – it works beautifully.

3) 2011 Pinot Bianco

Used indigenous yeasts. This will develop nicely. Good.

Notes from Tasting Room:

1. English Rose Sparkling NV

Pinot Noir. NV but mostly 2008. Nose is stunning: great fruit with acidity and freshness. Nice palate, nice texture. Finish has a touch of bitterness, but altogether a pleasure.

2. Vintage Reserve Brut

Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Lovely: fine and elegant.  Nose is yeasty with a crisp palate of ripe apples and peaches. Recently disgorged. Sur lies for four years and some, so that is good.  

3. Pinot Reserve 2005
Nice. A yeasty, tight nose. Palate is clean with a fruity complexity. A fresh, lively and elegant wine

4. Bacchus 2010
Melon, peaches and freshly cut hay … this is such an interesting grape and everyone seems to be interpreting it their own way. This is certainly a good example of what it can really do: a well-structured and balanced wine.

5. Reserve Chardonnay 2010
This is really good. Underwent a full malolactic and the oak does dominate the fruit too much: preferred the unoaked version. Still, well-made and a very English expression of this French varietal – exciting stuff.

6. Pinot Noir 2011 tank sample
I am hoping that Pinot Noir becomes a real specialty in England. I am tasting a variety of attempts – I wish more people were giving it a go … This one is sort of northern Italian in style but with a slightly medicinal finish. Bearing in mind that it is a tank sample, I will eagerly return to this wine once bottled: the potential is there.

The Chapel Down Winery

Tenterden Vineyard

Small Hythe, Tenerden

Kent TN30 7NG

Tel: 01580 753033

www.chapeldown.com 

sales@chapeldown.com

RIDGEVIEW ESTATE, SUSSEX

When we arrived at Ridgeview, they had been up all night on “frost watch”, lighting fires, or bougies, in the vineyards. So effective is this ancient method of frost prevention, that as soon as all of the bougies are lit, they have to go around and put them out! By doing this, they can get the temperatures up by 2-4 degrees quite quickly and this is all they need. Ridgeview have their own weather reporter. The later in May there are frost alerts, the worse, because after then, any bad frosts means that it is very unlikely to have more bud bursts.

Mike Roberts, the charismatic and strongly-opinioned owner, along with his wife, Chris, takes a “bare earth” philosophy to wine-making: irrigation is cheating … compacted ground is a good protection from frost … grass is a natural radiator. He takes the European view that winemakers should not overly intervene or manipulate the wines - except when in bad years when they have to intervene and rescue it. He says that he is slightly skeptical of “terroir”, yet insists that aspect is crucial – cannot “fix” that. As with everything; location, location, location.

This is not a maritime climate, he explains. It is not wet and horrible and damp here. It is semi-Continental, and with its cool nights, resembles that of the Champagne region. It is difficult to change this preconceived and inaccurate image people have of Sussex, and England in general. Ridgeview is sheltered by the Sussex Downs and slopes southwards towards them. Yes, there is mildew and disease problems, but the high hills help keep things dry. The soils are limestone ridge and sandstone at four and five meters, and chalk, providing great acidity and backbone to these award-wining wines. Ridgeview only grows the Champagne grapes: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier and only produces sparkling wines. The delight is the fact that each one of these wines is distinct, personable and vastly enjoyable. Equally delightful, as well as intriguing, is the fact that they prefer to keep their technical details an industry secret, even to journalists … which makes me want to know which wine-making practices go on behind those doors that are so vastly unique that they need to be guarded!

Mike Roberts, Ridgeview Estate

2009 GROSVENOR Blanc de blancs

100% Chardonnay. Nose is lovely… clean, elegant, honeyed. On the palate we meet a well-structured and lively body with tropical fruit, notes of toasted almonds and a touch of sweetness but not too much.  The finish is short but clean, no bitterness. 

2009 KNIGHTSBRIDGE Blanc de Noirs
Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. This is really nice: toasty nose, full palate, light and lively body with fruity flavours as opposed to savoury and a solid, persistent finish.

2009 CAVENDISH 
Predominantly Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier with some Chardonnay. Really refreshing and seductively appealing: You want to go back to it again and again.

2009 FITZROVIA Rosé

Their rose, which is uniquely, Chardonnay dominant, makes for a fresh and elegant wine. Nice nose, nice palate... bubbles are creamy.

2009 RIDGEVIEW VICTORIA rosé 
This was my least favourite wine. For me, it lacked interest and extracts/weight. But I still enjoyed it!

2009 PIMLICO
Sparkling red made from Pinots – it changes every year. I love this. It has so much personality and vivacity. The oak works, the fruit works … it is tightly structured, balanced and restrained, but very perfumed with hints of peppery spices.

Ridgeview Estate Winery

Fragbarrow Lane

Ditching Common

Sussex BN68TP

Tel: 0845 345 7292

www.ridgeview.co.uk

BOLNEY WINE ESTATE, SUSSEX

I visited this winery in May of 2012 with my colleagues from the British Circle of Wine Writers. We were met and guided by Samantha Linter (owner and winemaker) and Stuart Barford (Sales). They were in the middle of building a new café and visiting/tasting centre which I now know to be completed. This is a modest, family-run operation that has a great mind-set. They are doing everything right: tours, tastings, tea room, café, gift shop, events and more.

Bolney is a 40-acre estate near Cowfold, Sussex. It is 150m above sea level with south-facing, sandstone slopes and surrounded by ancient woodland. The estate is located on a hill that was part of the Butting Hill One Hundred, listed in the Doomsday Book and they have two special parcels called Foxhole Vineyards that are reserved for Pinot Noir, Bacchus and Pinot Grigio – these are the varieties they are focusing on for their high-end wines. And this makes sense: they are not situated on the chalky Kimmeridgian Ridge that stretches from Burgundy, through Champagne and to the Downs. They are situated on another ridge, composed primarily of sandstone, the main soil type in Kitterlé, Alsace, home to steely Rieslings, fragrant Pinot Noirs and crisp Pinot Gris -  so the potential is there, if the climate cooperates …

Bolney began in 1972 as Bookers Vineyards with 3 acres. Today it has 39 acres and grows 11 grape varieties, specialising in red wines – which is forward-thinking … Sam points out that if climate change moves or halts the Gulf Stream, then the English wine trade is finished. But if not, then the future will feature reds. I agree completely – she’s getting ahead of the curve.

They produce 4 still and 4 sparkling wines with both traditional and non-traditional grapes. Below are the wines they showed us that day – and I shall be returning to fill up the boot.

2011 Lychgate White

Reichensteiner, Schönburger and Wurzer grapes. The nose is yeasty and clean with a crisp, refreshing palate that takes you for a stroll in a fragrant English orchard …. all apples and pears with a touch of the tropical lychee. And it is only 11%, which is what it should be – wines of 13,5˚ and more, don’t taste of anything. It’s the New World climates that have forced the trend for baked wines upon us.

2011 Pinot Grigio

Clean, crisp, appealingly tart – a slight lack of body/texture, but a refreshing and original “English” version of this variety.

2010 Bolney rose

50/50 Rondo and Dornfelder. A lovely savoury nose followed by a palate of stewed rhubarb. Rondo was introduced to England in 1983 and is a very early ripening variety with skins that can be a bit odd-tasting, which is why it is preferred to be used in rosés than reds (less skin contact on the jus) and in blends.

2011 Bolney rosé

A year younger …and still too young. A nose of redcurrants, but it was overall lacking structure and extracts. Would like to go back to this and taste it again in a few months.

2009 Lychgate red

80% Rondo and 20% Dornfelder. This has a lovely fresh, stony and herby nose. 12.5% - refreshing and pleasant to drink. Yields are 2.5-3 tons to the acre and the planting density is really low (as opposed to the higher the better). The plants are really spread out because of the humidity – this protects vines from disease. But it will also encourage the roots to remain on the surface and not be forced to dig down into the soil, where the nutrients and varietal character are found.

2011 Pinot Noir

Aged in ¾ French and ¼ American oak. 13% alcohol.  Served a bit too cold so was not showing at its best that day: a bit diluted and unfocused. More of a light Alsatian version of Pinot Noir and I’d expect a more Alto Adige weight.

2007 Blanc de Blancs

100% Chardonnay. Nicely made – original varietal expression. Crisp, clean and biscuity. Very enjoyable.

2008 Cuvée rosé

100% Pinot Noir. 18 months sur lees. Nice nose and refreshing, clean body with tight structure and lively bubbles. Great.

2009 Cuvee Noir

100% Dornfelder. Nicely perfumed … strawberries. Pleasing texture. Well-made.

2009 Bolney Bubbly

Muller-Thurgau and Chardonnay blend. The nose is really nicely crisp and dances you straight into a complex and textured body, finishing off with a clean, solid finish.

Café open Wednesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturdays from 8-4pm

Call or visit web-site to book tastings or a tour.

Foxhole Lane, BOlney, Haywards Heath, West Sussex RH17 5NB, 01444 881 575

www.bolneywineesate.co.uk

Tasting in Meursault (rouges) March 1994

1991 Premier Cru Genévriers, Patriarche – good, évolue, fruity and fresh

1991 Premier Cru Genévrières, Charles Jobard – pleasant but lacking structure

1992 Charmes, Pierre Millot – nice

1992 Charmes, Philippe Bouzereau – tannins fondus, souple, longue en bouche

1991 Perrières, Guy Roulot – lovely,  tannins serrés, fruité

1991 Ballot Millot – gras et mœlleux, longue en bouche et finale

1991 Perrieres, Chouet Clivet – did not find this well-made

1990 Charmes, Michelot **** – great stuff

1990 Clos de Mazeray, Jacques Prieur – yes, well-made

1990 Coche, Bizouard – no

1988 Bouzerau Gruere, Cotes de Beaune – no, all horse manure

Tasting in Pouilly Vinzelles et Pouilly Loche, March 1994

POUILLY VINZELLES

1992 Domaine MARTIN

Nail polish, acetone, poorly vinified, really disappointing.

1992 Maison BOUCHARD

Nez un peu mieux, bouche est fruité.

1992 Domaine PERRATON

Again, very light, not much content, extracts diluted.

1992 Domaine VALETTE

Bien fait, honnete, equilibre, un peu diluted.

1991 Cave de CHAINTRE

Nez de noissette, vanille, miel, bouche petillant, vif

1991 Cave des GRANDS CRUS

Les Quarts – minerale, disagreable

1989 Château de VINZELLES, Maison Loren

Vernis d’ongle au nez, bouche est pas mal. Equilibre, fruite, jolie acidity.

POUILLY LOCHE

1992 Domaine DAILLY

Dominated by grapefruit – whose been adding selected yeasts then ?

1991 Cave des GRANDS CRUS Les Mures – non trop intéressant

Blind Tasting in Vosne-Romanée - March 1994

MONGEARD MUGNERET

92 Grands Echezeaux

91 Grands Echezeaux

90 Grands Echezeaux * soyeuse, veloute, parfait

90 Richebourg** – a very dark beast indeed.

One of my favourite producers. These wines are majestic, powerful, stunningly well-made and full of personality and charm and depth of character. Seductive and sensual. Perfect expression of this terroir.

DOMAINE FRANCOIS GERBET

92 Premier Cru Les Petits Monts*

91 Premier Cru Les Petits Monts

92 Aux Réas villages

92 Echezeaux – perfection ***

Encore, rien à dire. Ces vins sont plus « vifs » et ludiques… moins « sérieux » mais aussi puissant.

ROBERT ARNOUX

92 Premier Cru Les Chaumes

91 Premier Cru Les Chaumes – preferred to 91, good oak, mature fruit and a good acid and tannin balance.

91 Les Hautes Maizières villages - ok

92 Echezeaux *** superbe

JACQUES et PATRICE CACHEUX

92 Vosne Romanee villages – good for a villages

91 Vosne Romanee

92 Premier Cru Les Suchots* - fleuri, féminin, gras et solide

92 Premier Cru La Croix Rameau - ok

92 Echezeaux*** - fumé, sensuel, mystérieux, séduisant.

FRANCOIS CONFURON

91 Premier Cru Les Chaumes – caramel and candied apples. Piquant …

RION

92 Premiers Cru Les Chaumes

91 Premiers Cru Les Chaumes

90 Premiers Cru Les Chaumes

89 Premiers Cru Les Chaumes

93 Premiers Cru Les Chaumes

A really interesting evolution, These are direct, straight-forward wines. Well-made but a bit boring – they do not move me as the others have done.

MUGNERET-GIBOURG

92 Echezeaux** enormous potential

85 Echezeaux **** parfaitement évolué.

DOMAINE FOREY

92 Vosne Romanée villages – métallique, médiocre

92 Premier Cru Les Gaudichots

92 Echezeaux** - very powerful, but also very aggressive

91 Vosne Romanée villages – un goût de technique, plastique

GERARD MUGNERET

83 Premier Cru Les Suchots

85 Premier Cru Les Suchots

92 Premier Cru Les Suchots

Very well-made with stunning potential. Gorgeous fresh acidity and strong extracts. The 83 is still going strong.

Blind Tasting in Vosne-Romanée - March 1994

MONGEARD MUGNERET

92 Grands Echezeaux

91 Grands Echezeaux

90 Grands Echezeaux * soyeuse, veloute, parfait

90 Richebourg** – a very dark beast indeed.

One of my favourite producers. These wines are majestic, powerful, stunningly well-made and full of personality and charm and depth of character. Seductive and sensual. Perfect expression of this terroir.

DOMAINE FRANCOIS GERBET

92 Premier Cru Les Petits Monts*

91 Premier Cru Les Petits Monts

92 Aux Réas villages

92 Echezeaux – perfection ***

Encore, rien à dire. Ces vins sont plus « vifs » et ludiques… moins « sérieux » mais aussi puissant.

ROBERT ARNOUX

92 Premier Cru Les Chaumes

91 Premier Cru Les Chaumes – preferred to 91, good oak, mature fruit and a good acid and tannin balance.

91 Les Hautes Maizières villages - ok

92 Echezeaux *** superbe

JACQUES et PATRICE CACHEUX

92 Vosne Romanee villages – good for a villages

91 Vosne Romanee

92 Premier Cru Les Suchots* - fleuri, féminin, gras et solide

92 Premier Cru La Croix Rameau - ok

92 Echezeaux*** - fumé, sensuel, mystérieux, séduisant.

FRANCOIS CONFURON

91 Premier Cru Les Chaumes – caramel and candied apples. Piquant …

RION

92 Premiers Cru Les Chaumes

91 Premiers Cru Les Chaumes

90 Premiers Cru Les Chaumes

89 Premiers Cru Les Chaumes

93 Premiers Cru Les Chaumes

A really interesting evolution, These are direct, straight-forward wines. Well-made but a bit boring – they do not move me as the others have done.

MUGNERET-GIBOURG

92 Echezeaux** enormous potential

85 Echezeaux **** parfaitement évolué.

DOMAINE FOREY

92 Vosne Romanée villages – métallique, médiocre

92 Premier Cru Les Gaudichots

92 Echezeaux** - very powerful, but also very aggressive

91 Vosne Romanée villages – un goût de technique, plastique

GERARD MUGNERET

83 Premier Cru Les Suchots

85 Premier Cru Les Suchots

92 Premier Cru Les Suchots

Very well-made with stunning potential. Gorgeous fresh acidity and strong extracts. The 83 is still going strong.

My Top Wines from VINITALY 1996

Luciano Sandrone's 1992 Barolo

Ruffino's 1990 Riserva Ducale

Enoteca's 1995 Bianco di Custoza, Vigna la Rugola

Villa Matilde's 1993 Falerno del Massico

Masi's 1991 Campofiorin

Carpineto's 1990 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

Michele Chiarlo's 1993 Rabaja Barbaresco

Vertical Tasting in Chambolle en Musigny, March 1994

GHISLAINE BARTHOD

93 Chambolle Musigny

Delicate and precious. Style not to my taste, but very well-made. Will age well.

93 Premier Cru « Beaux Bruns »

Fresh, fruity nose ... a bit weedy and herbaceaous on the palate with an aftertaste on the retro-olfactif. A petullent, arrogant wine.

AMIOT SERVELLE

92 Premier Cru « Amoureuses »

93 Premier Cru « Amoureuses »

91 Premier Cru « Charmes » - woody, elegant

93 Premier Cru « Charmes » - excellent race

An orgy. All are delicious, artfuly structured and full of elegant power. Tannins are done well and the wines are balanced. Enormous potential here.

JOSEPH DROUHIN

91 Amoureuses – very closed today, tight, still so young

93 Amoureuses – very special. Lots of body. Confiture de fruits rouges. Coffee. So charming.

DOMAINE COMTE DE VOGUE

91 Musigny

85 Musigny

The 91 is the lesser wine, but is tasting better today than the 85 with its better structure and power. Two very different wines. Both delicious.

JACQUES-FREDERIC MUGNIER

93 Chambolle – all over the place and unfocused, sloppy. Too sweet, too confectioned. But nothing too terminal, so it may sort itself out.

93 Les Fuées – nose is fresh and clean but tannins biting. Will be fine.

93 Musigny Grand Cru – weird nose, but eventually get to the black pepper and violets. A fat and very concentrated wine. Will do well.

Blind Tasting in Gevrey-Chambertin - March 1994

Blind Tasting in Gevrey-Chambertin for Vintage Magazine.  Recently bottled … tasting for potential.

1992 Ruchottes, Marchand

Fruity nez, tannins clean, notes of vanilla. Round, balanced. All there.

1992 Mazoyeres, Camus

Nose very closed, as is to be expected. Aromas firm and thin … violet notes perceptible. Very tannic on the palate, flat finish. But on the whole, balanced with potential.

1992 Mazi, Harman Geoffroy

Brilliant robe. Open, expansive nose already - fruity, framboise, cassis, tannins well integrating. Good balance showing already. Harmony. Une touche de la sauvage.

1992 Latricières, Jean-Louis Trapet

Robe un violet fonce, nez plat, bouche est ferme et métallique. Not showing well today at all. Perhaps too lacking in matière.

1992 Griotte, Joseph Drouhin

Huge nose but palate falls short and disappoints. A bit thin. Delicious though. Will peak early.

1992 Charmes, Lucot Javelier

Nose too expressive : all cassis and bananas(selected yeasts ?). Tannins nicely integrated et fondus, le bois ne se domine pas trop. Alcool est équilibré. Un exemple typique de l’appellation mais sans enorme distinction.

1992 Charmes, Geantet Pansiot

Nez animal, un peu ferme. Structure moins complexe que Javelier. Mais bien fait.

1992 Chapelle , Jean & Louis Trapet

Nez de cerises et fruits de bois. Un peu trop sucre et légèrement déséquilibré. Facile a bois déjà …

1992 Chambertin Closes de Béze, Faiveley

Belle robe. Belle structure ... charpente avec beaucoup de caractère. A suivre !

1992 Chambertin, Les Caves des Hautes – Côtes

Les Chambertins ont soufferts un peu avec cette millésime… au moins aujourd’hui ils sont faibles. Celui-ci est pas mal … les notes animals, un corps avec de la complexité.

Château de Gilly les Cîteaux, vintages 1937 – 1990

Dinner at Château de Gilly les Cîteaux

March 1994 (A sélection of Burgundy vintages 1937 – 1990)

1990 Marsannay Domaine Collotte

Un robe des violets, cerises … un nez de cassis, fruits murs, vanille … intense. Les tannins viennent vite sur la bouche mais tout de suite s’arrondissent. Très bien fait.

1985 Nuits St. Georges 1^er Cru « Clos des Argilières », Domaine Régis Dubois

Robe aux nuances d’oranges. Un nez d’animal, gibier. Une structure franche avec superbe longueur. Légèrement déséquilibre en alcool.

1983 Echezeaux Grand Cru Maison Moillard-Grivot

Robe de noir violet, nez ferme avec une touche de musc et sous-bois, fruits secs, orange. Une bouche de compote de fruits murs. Les tannins explosent. A good 1983.

1978 Vosne Romanée 1^er Cru « Les Suchots », Maison Louis Latour

Une robe joli, nez épice de truffle, cuir. Non un typique 1978. Bouche bien vive …jolie acidité. Plein de vie et de joie.

1976 Echezeaux Grand Cru, Maison Joseph Drouhin

Just opening and revealing itself – or sputtering its last breath ?  There is a lack of matière. It is all tanins, no aromas, no suppleness.

1971 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru Maison Louis Jadot ***

Robe tres intsnse. Nez de cuir, petits fruits rouges, miel, cannelle, chocolat et praline avec une cote confiserie. Bouche fraîche et final longue et harmonieux. Perfect. Heaven.

1963 Nuits St Georges 1^er Cru Maison Moillard-Grivot

Robe bien évolue, nez moins complexe mais bien, bouche décevante, fruits sont disparus, l’alcool domine. It’s dying.

1949 Chambolle Musigny Maison Moillard Grivot ****

Fantastique. Parfaiotment evolue. Fruits murs …musc…animal…élégant … du tabac frais, sous-bois. Une longue bouche de griottes. Un vin qui est très sensuel et élégant.

1937 Musigny Grand Cru, Domaine Jacques Frederic Mugnier ****

YUM. Incroyable. Chocolat, figues, cocao, du terre humide, foine, summer meadows after a rainstorm, fruits d’été, parfumes de lavande. Tannins encore présents. Parfaitement équilibré. Une joie.

La Chablisienne, Tirel-Guerin in St Malo

As I am researching my new book on Climate Change and Wine, I find myself drawn to my old tasting notes from when I fell under the spell of the voluptuous seductiveness, the savoury textures and the animal perfumes of the Burgundies of the ’80 and ‘90s. I cannot help but compare the alcohol levels and trace my notes throughout the decades.

La Chablisienne Lunch at Tirel-Guerin in St Malo

21 February 1994

1991 La Chablisienne, Vieilles Vignes

Served with an oyster broth which gave it a slight metallic after-taste. But its attack was fruity and focused. Palate round and balanced. Really nice.

The wines below were served with Coquilles Saint-Jacques des Cotes d’Armor aux Senteurs Perigourdines (avec truffles et foie gras dans une brique – I still dream of this dish.) :

1989 Premier Cru « Beauroy »

Mediocre …metalic, lacking body.

1990 Premier Cru « Cote de Lechet »

A joy. Luscious and complex and full of personality. Very well-made.

1990 Premier Cru « Fourchaume »

Served too chilled and the robe was a milky cloudy white. It settled and cleared, revealing a luxuriously rich and appealing wine. Fourchaume is my favourite vineyard in Chablis, and this one does not disappoint.

The wines below were served with a Pintadeau Fermier Poêle au Shiitake :

1990 Premier Cru « Bougros »

Excellent…a white birch tree after a spring raisntorm. Musk. Ondulating and voluptuous.

1990 Premier cru « Blanchot »

A very upfront nose – so much so that there is little to follow on the palate. Slightly metallic and acidic.

1989 Premier Cru « Château Grenouille »

Again, served too chilled and with a cloudy robe, but cleared to a fruity delight. Notes of oranges.

1984 Premier Cru « Les Preuses »

Delicious. Best of the day. Served with fromage du Darley en salade aux sésames dorés.

Crémant de Bourgogne served with chocolate mi-amer Valrhona.

London Wine Trade Fair - 1994

As I am researching my new book on Climate Change and Wine, I am digging out my old tasting notes to track alcohol levels and style changes. But here is a random selection ...

London Wine Trade Fair, Olympia May 1994 - a few found notes

1990 Château de Rully, Antonin Rodet, rouge

Dreadful. And normally I love their wines. This is unfocused, a mess.

1989 Château de Chamires, Jouennes d’Herville

Not to my taste: a frothy cocktail of pepper and horse manure.

1993 Les Vignerons d’Igé à Macon

Le blanc … average acidity and structure. A clean, simple wine, nice.

1992 Les Vignerons d’Ige

The same wine as above but vinified en fût. Not bad, but there is not enough fruit to carry the oak. Better without.

1993 Les Vignerons d’Ige

Le rouge – but Gamay, not Pinot Noir. Nice robe, fresh and vif. Light but well-made structure.

Some New World wines …

1991 Stoneleigh Cabernet Sauvignon, New Zealand

Wow. Hate New Zealand wines normally. Hate Cabernet Sauvignon on its own. But love this.

1992 Montana Marlborough Cabernet, New Zealand

Restrained, elegant, better than expected. OK.

1989 Château St Jean Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma, California

Lovely red fruit, oak programme just right- perfectly balanced, structured and well-made.

1990 Palmer Merlot, Long Island, New York

OK. Dry and unyielding. No texture or complexity.

A day at Vinexpo in 1995

As I am researching my new book on Climate Change and Wine, I find myself drawn to my old tasting notes from when I fell under the spell of the voluptuous seductiveness, the savoury textures and the animal perfumes of the Burgundies of the ’80 and ‘90s. I cannot help but compare the alcohol levels and trace my notes throughout the decades.

VINEXPO, Bordeaux – June 1995 - a few notes

1994 Chevalier de France, Brut Chardonnay, Boisset

Nice nose … fine, tight bubbles and a crisp, clean finish.

1994 Merlot, Boisset

Nothing. Sweet, soapy, lacking in structure, fruit and any acidic backbone.

1994 Syrah, Boisset

Tastes just like the Merlot ! Indistinguishable. Any varietal character is erased by the alcohol.

1994 Cabernet Sauvignon, Boisset

Again, one-dimensional, lacking in any complexity or interest. Un vin facile.

1993 Pinot Noir, Charles de France

Straight forward and clean – but nothing else. 

Lunch at Hospices de Beaune

As I am researching my new book on Climate Change and Wine, I find myself drawn to my old tasting notes from when I fell under the spell of the voluptuous seductiveness, the savoury textures and the animal perfumes of the Burgundies of the ’80 and ‘90s. I cannot help but compare the alcohol levels and trace my notes throughout the decades.

Hospices de Beaune  lunch, Palais de Congres

November 17, 1995

1992 Meursault-Charmes cuvee de Bahèzre de Lanlay

A little soapy and insipid. Too sweet. Lacking in matte rand structure.

1991 Beaune Cuvee Guigone de Salins

Not bad. A little light in structure, but nice notes of spices and pepper.

1988 Pommard, cuvée Cyrot-Chaudron

This has a more smooth and rich style than the 1985 – more fluid and élégant. Both are stunning

Dinner at Hospices de Beaune, November 1995

As I am researching my new book on Climate Change and Wine, I find myself drawn to my old tasting notes from when I fell under the spell of the voluptuous seductiveness, the savoury textures and the animal perfumes of the Burgundies of the ’80 and ‘90s. I cannot help but compare the alcohol levels and trace my notes throughout the decades.

Tasted at Dinner at Hospices de Beaune

November 18, 1995

1992 Clos Reyssie, Pouilly-Fuisse

1991 1^er Cru Les Folatières, Puligny-Montrachet

Like Juicy Fruit chewing gum. Served with Sandre en écailles de pommes de terre.

1990 Chablis Grand Cru Blanchot

Selection du BIVB. Bien fait, sec et solide, bien structure. Served with La Salade de Sot-l’y-laisse de volaille au fond d’artichaut.

1992 Auxey-Duresses cuvee Boillot, Maison Duvergey-Taboureau à Meursault. Wonderful, spicy and lightly oaked. Well-balanced, fresh and personable.

1988 Beaune cuvée Rousseau-Deslandes

Maison Paul Chanson a Beaune. Rapeaux, sec et dur … moins intéressant, déséquilibre. Franchement, je pense que c’est simplement en décline, c’est tout. C’est perdu trop de sa jeunesse.

1989 Pommard cuvée Billardet, Maison Charles Vienot à Nuits-Saint-Georges.

Sublime. Parfait équilibre. Animal, notes de musc et cuir. Si séduisant. Pinot Noir as it should be. Served with les Grenadins de veau aux morilles – perfect marriage.

1989 Corton cuvee Docteur Peste, Maison Albert Bichot à Beaune.

Bien fait. Un peux serre. Il a encore du temps pour s’exprimer – il est ferme ce soir. Notes d’epices.

1990 Mazis-Chambertin cuvee madelaine Collignon, Maison Antonin Rodet à Mercurey, Parfait. J’adore cette appellation. Une texture soyeux et luxurieux. Thick velvet violet silk ribbons …

1985 Pommard cuvée Cyrot Chaudron, Maison Bouchard Père et Fils à Beaune.

Bien structuré, massive matière … un bête. Encore plein de vie et potentiel. 

1990 - 1994 vertical of Montrachet, chez Antonin Rodet

Tasted during Press Lunch at the Domaine Antonin Rodet

September 1995

1993 Château de Chamirey, Mercurey, Antonin Rodet

Gorgeous, terroir-driven wine: very mineral. Nez du buerre. 11 mois en fut de chene, mais le bois ne se domine pas. Parfaitement équilibré. Bienfait. A perfect Chardonnay.

1987 Rully, Antonin Rodet

Un nez de vas, sale et minéral, la bouche pleine de beurre… délicieux. Equilibré, joliment expressive, encore avec une acidité vif. Superbe.

1993 Nuit St. Georges, Antonin Rodet

Un très bon example d’un vin du village – mieux structuré que le plûpart. Poivre, épice et avec une solide structure.

1994 Montrachet Grand Cru

A little green and végétal … amer. 100% put in fûts, sur liés until May. Batonnage une fois par semaine. Kept longer sur liés because 1994 marked by a lack of acidity. I think this one will sort itself out.

1993 Montrachet Grand Cru

J’aime moins déjà. Robe plus brillant, nez plus frais mais le bois est plus marqué, la bouche moins structurée … une touche trop d’alcool et la finale est amère.

1992 Montrachet Grand Cru

Nez du coing, rhubarbe, citron, almond. La bouche est bien ronde et gras … complexe. Un vin de race.

1991 Montrachet Grand Cru

Stunning. Notes de grillé …. fumée … un nez d’agrume, super maturé, presque exotique mais toujours restreint : un trompeur. Jolies matières qui donne ce vin un grand avenir. La finale est agréablement – mais pas trop – boisé.

1990 Montrachet Grand Cru

Even better : une bouche pleine de matière, vif et superbement structuré – jolie acidité. Very nice.